First day in Dushanbe, Tajikistan...

The plane touched down at 3:50AM and the process of entering Tajikistan began.  The bus took us to the old hangar now used as a customs checkpoint.  Forms were handed out and we all lined up for our turn with the two manned booths.  Somehow I ended up at the back of the line like usually happens, even after my attempts to get a little ahead.  From there to twin old conveyor belts to pick up the luggage.  Then we lined up again to have our luggage stubs against our luggage.  Then comes the security check.  If you pass that you are allowed to leave.  The whole process took 40 minutes. Immediately upon exiting you're greeted by dozens of overly friendly taxi drivers who all want you as their passenger.  Did I mention that it's 4:30 AM?

One driver and I began haggling over price to go to a certain bazaar that was easy to explain. 
"The price of gas is really high," said he.
"Yes, but last time I only paid 25.  The price is too high."
"No, no God is my witness this price is fair," he said.
"30, 30 is fair," I said.
"No, the price of gas is really high."
I just looked at him as he went on.  He stopped speaking and saw that was as far as I was budging.
"Forty," he said.
I stuck out my hand and said, "Milesh" which means okay.
we hopped in his car and whizzed off into the night.  Jabbering about the weather, languages spoken, his wife and kids, my lack of a family, and of course a bit of politics at the gas pump, those Russians, Uzbeks, and the global financial situation.

Then I got out of the car a block and a half from my goal.  I began walking down the middle of the busy street.  Did I mention that it was 5AM?  The road was deserted except a few cleaning ladies were sweeping the street and sidewalks.  As I walked over the often repaired and lumpy road and the sidewalks I saw families starting to stir in the dark to get in one meal before light of day came and the fasting of Ramadan began again. I greeted an older man as he walked to the gate of his home.  He reflexively put his hand over his chest but was a bit startled by my greeting.

And here I am typing all this up in the living room of a friend who laid out a couple of blankets and a sheet for me to sleep on....

12 hours later I am posting this from a cafe in the center of the city.  More exciting things in the works so more to come...